Rupert Sanderson’s Saddle Shoes
Perhaps most readily associated with a patently American 1950s nostalgia – recalling varsity football game nights, wholesome cheerleaders, and spiffy sock hops – saddle shoes (or oxfords) were actually first conceived as a men's athletic golfing shoe in the early 1900s. During the 1930's stagflation, saddle shoes swiftly became a unisex sensation when high school girls deemed them ideal for the snazzy new Jitterbug's accompanying acrobatics, sliding, and spinning. They have since become a cultural mainstay sported by students and Hollywood royalty alike: viz. Diane Keaton and Robert Redford. In fact, the saddle shoes' compelling on-screen cinematic history (from Liv Tyler in Inventing the Abbots, to Sue Lyons in Kubrick's Lolita [1962], to Cybill Shephard in The Last Picture Show) is evidence of oxfords' wide-ranging character appeal.
Celebrated shoe designer Rupert Sanderson has been a lifelong oxford fan and decided that the time was ripe to unveil his traditionally Italian-crafted Saddled O range for both men and women at last year's Frieze Art Fair. As cherished by the likes of Tennessee Thomas, Zooey Deschanel, Cate Blanchett and Kate Phelan –- his kicky Saddled O's revival has sparked quite the oxford frenzy! I recently had a merry holiday chit-chat with Rupert about the wonder of saddle shoes mere moments before he was bound for Italy:
When is your first childhood memory of stumbling upon the wonder of saddle oxfords?
I have dimly been aware of them forever. Being a Brit they were not part of my childhood but I suppose I came to them through a sort of Norman Rockwell-type Americana of the 50s.
What originally prompted you to create the Saddled O's range
for both men and women? I wanted to keep them as true to the originals as possible. In my mind I see them as slightly worn-in and loved like an
old pair of Converse or Keds.
Saddle shoes were invented in 1906 by the American sporting goods company Spalding; why did you choose to retain their original Thulian pink flat sole?
They wouldn't be the same without the lightweight brick sole. It is a universally available material, consistent in colour the world over, and great for re-soling when they have been worn to death - as they should be.
Why do you reckon that now is an opportune moment to breathe new life into oxfords and launch the Saddled O's collection? I just felt that now was a good time. Had a feeling that people were tiring of trainers and the idea of a shoe with genuine sports provenance felt right. I like the bookish cool the shoes give a girl... There's something brainy about girls who wear them and I find that sexy. Perhaps my favourite film reference is Woody Allen wearing them throughout Play it Again Sam - the ultimate dysfunctional date movie.
Rupert's saddle shoes are available for men & women.